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“老佛爺”的最后一場香奈兒秀

  PARIS-They wore tweed and pearls, camellia, and a glittering double-C logo to attend Karl Lagerfeld's last Chanel show-his last grand performance. They wore Chanel sneakers and sci-fi silver Chanel boots, Chanel belts and Chanel handbags. Anna Wintour wears a pink Chanel long suit, while Janelle Monae wears a colorful, shiny skirt from the Temple of Dendur at Chanel series.

  巴黎——她們穿戴著粗花呢和珍珠、山茶花和亮閃閃的雙C標志,來參加卡爾·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)的最后一場香奈兒(Chanel)秀——他的最后一場盛大演出。她們穿著香奈兒運動鞋和科幻感十足的銀色香奈兒小靴子,香奈兒的腰帶和香奈兒手袋。安娜·溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)一身粉紅色的香奈兒長套裝,賈妮爾·莫納(Janelle Monae)則穿著五顏六色、閃閃發亮的裙子,來自香奈爾的丹鐸神廟(Temple of Dendur)系列。

  Throughout the fashion season, Chanel always attracts more customers than other shows, and those loyal fans and determined buyers are always proud to show their elegance. But under the bright glass dome of the Grand Palais in Paris, this space has never turned into a sea of ??knotted wool like it does now.

  在整個時裝季,香奈兒總是比其他的秀能吸引更多的顧客,那些忠實的粉絲和堅定的購買者總是為能展現出自己的優雅而自豪。但在巴黎大皇宮明亮的玻璃穹頂下,這個空間從來沒有像現在這樣,化作結子絨的海洋。

  Nearly an hour before the opening of the fashion show at 10.30am, they came here, and saw more than a dozen Swiss wooden houses standing on the scene, with towering mountains in the background, and smoke from the chimney, which was full of smoke. Snow covered the runway. Chanel's skis and poles protrude from a hill between 50 gray / green firs and white light poles. According to news from within the brand, Lagerfeld knew he had no more days to come when planning this fashion show with his former assistant Virginie Viard. Viad is now his heir to Chanel.

  離上午10點30分的時裝秀開場還有將近一個小時,她們就來到了這里,只見現場立著十多座瑞士木屋,背景是高聳的群山,還有煙囪冒著煙,周圍滿是積雪,埋過了T臺。香奈爾的滑雪板和滑雪杖從50棵灰色/綠色的冷杉和白色燈柱之間的小丘上伸出。據來自該品牌內部的消息,在和曾經的得力助手維吉尼·維亞德(Virginie Viard)一起策劃這場時裝秀時,拉格斐知道自己來日無多了。維亞德現在是他在香奈兒的衣缽傳人。

  Together they create a moment of true peace.

  他們一起創造了一個真正的和平時刻。

  Then, the wind rang. After a minute of silence, Lagerfeld's voice was heard from the audio system—or the intermittent and familiar way of speaking like a cannonball—the models followed the steps of the Gardenia Lodge. Led by Cara Delevingne, one of Lagerfeld's favorite models.

  然后,風鈴聲聲。默哀一分鐘后,音響系統傳出拉格斐的聲音——還是那斷斷續續又如連珠炮般令人熟悉的說話方式——模特們隨之走下梔子花小屋的臺階。領頭的是拉格斐最喜歡的模特之一卡拉·德萊文涅(Cara Delevingne)。

  What are they wearing?

  她們穿的是什么?

  Loose and soft black and white tweed coat, wide high-waisted pleated pants, hands in pockets. Tight panties like tight shorts under tight skirts, with short jackets, even more figure. The sweater dress features a three-dimensional Nordic pattern, and the Chanel No. 5 is looming. The zip ski shirt with crystal pattern is spelled out with real crystal. Down jackets are made of primary colors (including bright purple). Sheepskin double C belt bag. Snowflake hair accessory jewelry. Cloudy chiffon dress with ski villain pattern and CC chair lift printed on it; the little dress is made of white duchess satin, shining with cold light; there is also a "snowball skirt" (brand use This is the name), which is a vest embroidered with a golden snowflake pattern. Actress Penelope Cruz walked in, holding a white rose in her hand. Finally, it was David Bowie's Heroes.

  寬松柔軟的黑白粗花呢外套,寬大的高腰百褶褲,雙手插在口袋里。緊身短裙下如同緊身短褲般的短襯褲,搭配短款夾克,更顯身材。針織衫連衣裙采用立體感的北歐圖案,香奈兒五號若隱若現。拉鏈滑雪衫帶水晶圖案,是用真正的水晶拼出。羽絨服采用原色(包括亮紫色)。剪毛綿羊革雙C腰包。雪花款發飾珠寶。云霧雪紡連衣裙,上面印有滑雪小人圖案以及CC升降椅;小禮服采用白色的公爵夫人緞,閃爍著冷冷的光芒;還有白生絲和雪紡面料的“雪球裙”(品牌用的就是這個名字),也就是繡有金色雪花圖案的馬甲。女演員佩內洛普·克魯茲(Penelope Cruz)走了進來,手里拿著一朵白玫瑰。最后,是大衛·鮑伊(David Bowie)的《英雄》(Heroes)奏起。

  Many viewers and models shed tears. But this is not a funeral. It is not a retrospective. This is the classic Chanel, full of Lagerfeld's style: commoditization, drama style, full of creativity, sometimes delicate and clumsy, forward-looking and historical. Almost film-like scale. No doubt.

  許多觀眾和模特都流下了熱淚。但這不是葬禮。它也不是回顧展。這是經典的香奈兒,充滿拉格斐的風格:商品化、戲虐時尚風、充滿創意、時而精致時而笨拙、具有前瞻性又有著歷史淵源。幾近電影般的尺度。沒有疑慮。

  However, no one came out and bowed in spite of the standing ovation.

  但是,盡管全場起立鼓掌,卻已無人出來鞠躬謝幕。

  Nothing has changed-Chanel insists that nothing changes; the team and Viade (who got the parallel signing rights with Lagerfeld in this series of notes) will work as always-but some things have changed. On each chair is a small bag (there will always be a small bag), which contains a variety of photos of the series, as well as a replica of Lagerfeld's sketches, with him and Coco Chanel ( Coco Chanel) walking side by side. He was wearing black sunglasses, a pigtail, and a white collar. She was wearing a hat decorated with camellia and carrying a quilted bag. There was a line of scribbled writing on top of their heads: "It doesn't stop."

  一切都沒有改變——香奈兒堅持一切都不改變;團隊和維亞德(在這個系列的說明中,她與拉格斐獲得了并列署名權)將一如既往地工作——但有些東西確實變了。每張椅子上都放著一個小包(總會有一個小包),里面有各種各樣的該系列造型照片,還有一幅拉格斐創作的素描的復制品,上面是他和可可·香奈兒(Coco Chanel)并肩散步。他戴著黑色墨鏡,扎著馬尾辮,衣領雪白筆挺。她戴著一頂裝飾著山茶花的帽子,提著一個絎縫包。他們頭頂上有一行潦草的字跡:“節拍不止。”

  I just inevitably changed the tone.

  只是不可避免地換了調子。

  How difficult it is for any brand that has lost its leader (not the designer to resign or decide to sell), but remains the same in operation, in the absence of the person who has been defining it for many years . However, Chanel's plan has precedents and good results.

  對于任何失去了領軍人物(不是設計師主動辭職或決定出售),卻又在運行上保持原狀的品牌來說,在多年來一直在定義它的那個人不在的情況下,保持自己的方向何其困難。然而,香奈兒的計劃是有先例的,而且有好的結果。

  After the accidental death of Azzedine Ala?a in November 2017, the company did not choose any designer to replace him (people are generally considered irreplaceable), but instead developed his archives and sketches, allowing The brand continues to grow in accordance with his image and vision.

  阿瑟丁·阿拉亞(Azzedine Ala?a)于2017年11月意外去世后,公司沒有選擇任何設計師替代他(人們普遍認為他是不可替代的),而是開發他的檔案和草圖,讓這個品牌按照他的形象和愿景繼續發展下去。

  After three seasons, the brand adopts an approach that not only adopts the past fabrics and forms, but also keeps them moving forward: the butterfly print created by Araya in 1991 (he likes to work late at night and then watch the National Geographic channel program) came A thin, long lace dress; a double-breasted fleece from 1986 with a large collar and twisted pleats on the waist, almost like a cardigan with a tightened back, Still resolutely combining rigor and sensuality; on his classic wide funnel-neck knitted dress, the python print and floral-shaped ensemble seamlessly blend together. A sweatshirt covered with blue and purple hand-beaded swirls, just like the Northern Lights, inspired by the patterns on previous leather jackets, is still very popular today. Or will continue to be popular.

紐約時報中英文網 www.uydujn.live

  三季之后,品牌采用這樣一種做法,既采納過去的面料與形式,又讓它們不斷前進:阿拉亞于1991年創造的蝴蝶印花(他喜歡工作到深夜,然后看國家地理頻道的節目)來到一條輕薄的蕾絲長禮服上;一件1986年的雙排扣羊毛呢騎馬裝有了寬大的領子,腰部加上了扭曲的褶裥,幾乎像一件后部收緊的開襟羊毛衫,依然堅決地將嚴謹與性感結合在一起;在他經典的寬漏斗領針織連衣裙上,蟒蛇印花與花卉造型天衣無縫地融合在一起。一件運動衫上覆蓋著藍色和紫色的手工串珠漩渦,就像北極光一樣,靈感來自以前皮夾克上的圖案,現在仍然十分流行。或者會一直流行下去。

  Also Alexander McQueen. The founder of the brand committed suicide in 2010. Like Chanel, the brand's long-standing No. 2 person has also been appointed as its head. Nearly 10 years later, Sarah Burton slowly and subtly transformed the brand into her own, pushing it forward without ever denying or losing contact with the founder. Instead, she polished its edges and corners and illuminated its darkness, adding some wild romance.

  還有亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)。品牌創始人于2010年自殺身亡,與香奈兒一樣,品牌長期以來的二號人物也被任命為它的掌門人。近10年后,莎拉·伯頓(Sarah Burton)慢慢地、巧妙地把這個品牌打造成她自己的,在從未否認或失去與創始人聯系的情況下,推動了它的發展。相反,她打磨它的棱角,照亮它的黑暗,加入了一些野性的浪漫。

  With good intentions, I use it to express my views on the world.

  帶著善意,用它來發表對這個世界的觀點。

  This season, she did it with special skills. She worked with a factory in a community in northern England where she was a child (the audience sits on huge rolls of fabric customized for this occasion, they are surprisingly comfortable; all producer names are included in the press conference description)-once the UK leaves The kind of business that the European Union could be threatened with-she extolls their professions, presents them in a remarkable form, shows how important these traditions and talents are, and how much they would cost if they were left alone.

  這一季,她以特別的技巧做到了這一點。她與童年所在的英格蘭北部社區中的工廠合作(觀眾坐在為這個場合定制的巨大織物卷上,它們驚人地舒適;所有生產者的名字都被收入發布會說明里)——就是一旦英國離開歐盟可能會受到威脅的那種企業——她歌頌他們的職業,以卓越的形式展示它們,表明這些傳統和才干有多么重要,如果對它們坐視不理,將會帶來多大損失。

  方形 Square (but not exaggerated) meticulous grey jacket with shoulders shows that power can be conveyed through tailoring, rather than through shoulder pads, whose sides hang down like a waterfall to the knees, and are embellished with woven edges written "Made in England. The Bronte novel's heroine-style tea party skirt is made of Duchess satin, with a fuzzy watercolor rose print on it, and the waist is buckled with a double-studded belt. Leather and satin are rotated into roses on the waist and upper arms-York's white roses, Lancaster's red roses.

  肩部呈方形(但不夸張)的細致灰色夾克表明,可以通過剪裁來傳達力量,而不是通過墊肩,它的側面像瀑布一樣垂到膝蓋,裝飾著寫有“英格蘭制造”的織邊。勃朗特小說女主角式的茶會裙用公爵夫人緞制成,上面是模糊的水彩玫瑰印花,腰部用雙包釘皮帶扣住。皮料和緞子在腰部和上臂上被旋轉成玫瑰——約克的白玫瑰,蘭開斯特的紅玫瑰。

  A tights is made of woven straps with silver tailor buttons. Lace silhouettes a variety of wild animals: owls and cormorants, seagulls and worker bees. The industrial machine with a metallic sheen turned into a tulle dress with tiny silver chains and treasures shining on it. Every choice makes sense.

  一件緊身衣由綴有銀色裁縫扣的編織帶制成。蕾絲映襯著各種各樣的野生動物:貓頭鷹和鸕鶿、海鷗與工蜂。帶著金屬光澤的工業機器變成了一件薄紗連衣裙,上面有細小的銀鏈和珍寶在閃爍。每一個選擇都有意義。

  This is a hymn to Britain (that can be worn on the body), a UK full of thoughts and myths, a UK that might have been, or a UK that might never have.

  這是對英國的一曲(可以穿在身上的)贊歌,一個充滿思想與神話的英國,一個也許本可以有的英國,或一個也許永遠不會有的英國。

  This is acknowledging that in this case, as in all cases, we must look forward to the day when the future is ripe and wait and see what will happen next.

  這是在承認,在這種情況下,就像在所有情況下一樣,我們必須期待未來時機成熟的那天,觀望接下來將會發生什么事情。

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